CBD is one of the most contentious beauty buzzwords of the past decade. It seems that everyone, everywhere, is talking about it, yet our collective understanding of this plant-based ingredient is muddled by conflicting information.
A growing amount of scientific research has emerged to support claims that CBD may aid a variety of mental and physical health issues, from muscle inflammation to anxiety, but the extract’s relationship to cannabis inevitably sparked controversy and confusion over safe usage and legality.
To shed some light on the matter, we spoke to nutritionist Sarah Flower, head of beauty at OTO Rosie Joly, head of research and product development at Cellular Goods Alexia Blake, and Johan Obel and Clemens Böninger, founders of Marylebone’s The Drug Store, to help us separate the facts from fiction. Here’s everything you need to know…
What is CBD?
First things first, what exactly is cannabidiol, or CBD? “CBD, short for cannabidiol, is a non-intoxicating and non-psychoactive molecule found in the cannabis plant that matches one naturally produced by our own bodies in the endocannabinoid system,” says Joly.
“The endocannabinoid system (ECS) helps keep the body in balance, or, to use the technical term, homeostasis. It helps regulate sleep, mood and pain amongst other things; by communicating to neurotransmitters, cells and hormones to regulate back to their happy equilibrium.”
What does CBD do?
“As CBD oil is classed as a food supplement, manufacturers and retailers cannot make any medical claims,” says Flower. However, new research has suggested it may be beneficial for a number of conditions including anxiety, depression, inflammation, sleep disorders, migraines, joint pain, fibromyalgia, and even some skin conditions including acne (hence the influx of CBD-infused skincare).
Due to the classification, industry figures are restricted in making claims on exactly how it works. What can be said, however, is that “phytocannabinoids, such as CBD, interact with the body’s inherent endocannabinoid system, which contributes to a wide variety of regulatory functions in our body,” say Obel and Böninger.
Indeed, new research has demonstrated promising support for CBD’s benefits in both the physical and mental realms. One study showed the extract led to osteoarthritic dogs becoming more active, suggesting a decrease in inflammation and pain, while other emerging research supports the idea that CBD can increase levels of ‘feel good’ hormones.
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The research around CBD looks encouraging when it comes to our sleep too. A recent survey by luxury CBD brand OTO found that a quarter of the UK (24 per cent) have tried CBD oil to improve sleep quality, and of those that have, 42 per cent cite sleeping for longer periods as a result, and 40 per cent say their quality of sleep has improved.
Another initial study found that 66 per cent of insomniac participants slept better after taking a CBD product for one month.
There is talk that CBD may start to be classed as a medicine, and in which case it will be subject to more trials and research in the future.
Is CBD legal in the UK?
In the UK, CBD is completely legal.“It’s often mixed with other oils, such as olive, coconut or hemp, which can act as a carrier and also aid absorption,” explains Flower. You can buy it in liquid forms, sprays, pastes, teas, and capsules.
However, the legal confusion begins when THC comes into the picture. This is the psychoactive part of the cannabis plant – the part that gets you high – and is the only phytocannabinoid that appears on the controlled substances list in the UK. (A product containing trace amounts of less than 0.2 per cent THC generally meets the legal standards.)
In the USA, some products contain both THC and CBD, but these are banned in the UK. Stringent regulation in harvesting and production is required to ensure an end product falls under the 0.2 per cent THC threshold – something that Obel and Böninger quickly learned when sourcing brands to stock at The Drug Store.
“Most CBD products on the market will have trace amounts of THC within the 0.2 per cent range, (especially so-called “full-spectrum” products). Purchasing from a reputable retailer will ensure you’re only getting the CBD (and not the THC).” The Drug Store rigorously investigates every brand it stocks, before the products are granted a space on the shelves. “We are very careful in our selection and will only sell products with no traces or non-detectable amounts of THC,” they say.
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As Flower explains, research has hinted at the potential benefits of using THC therapeutically, and many countries have legalised the medical use of cannabis, including Australia, Canada, and 33 of the United States. “The media recently reported on parents of children with epilepsy campaigning to use cannabis oil, but this treatment uses THC (medical marijuana) in addition to CBD and is therefore not legal to purchase or bring into this country,” she says.
Will CBD oil get you high?
A pure CBD product is non-psychoactive, and so will not get you high. “CBD oil does not contain the chemical psychoactive component THC tetrahydrocannabinol, which is the part of cannabis that triggers a high or hallucination,” says Flower. “CBD oil is extracted from hemp and not the cannabis plant containing THC; in fact, CBD oil has been shown to help block the psychoactive effects of THC on the brain and can also help reduce anxiety, stress and even depression.”
Is CBD oil addictive?
“CBD does not work in the same way as cannabis and is not addictive,” says Flower. “However, it will stimulate your dopamine and serotonin levels, giving you a ‘feel good’ factor which can help when you are suffering with pain, depression and other related conditions.”
CBD has been shown to enhance our endocannabinoid system, which controls and regulates many functions in our body, from sleep, inflammation, mood and appetite.
CBD skincare – what are the benefits?
One thing we do know about CBD is that it has significant potential in skincare. Numerous studies have shown that, when applied topically to the skin, CBD oil can help reduce inflammation – promising news for those looking to tackle breakouts or sensitivity.
“When used topically in skincare, CBD has powerful benefits. It’s incredibly versatile (our bodies are effectively built to interact with it) and so it can be used by mostly any skin type,” says Joly. “CBD supports healthy skin rejuvenation and sebum production, revitalising and rebalancing both oily and dry skin alike. It accelerates the regeneration of skin cells, and is also an antioxidant and protects skin from the damage of free radicals.”
A unicorn in the ingredients world, CBD can take to task multiple skincare issues and adapts to your skincare needs depending on your skin type. “It’s highly ‘sebostatic’ and reacts with receptors to help balance and control oil production on the skin, which leads to fewer impurities like pimples, spots and blackheads,” explains Joly. “It’s also a naturally nourishing oil, leaving your skin feeling hydrated and soft after use.”
Is CBD completely safe?
Although CBD is deemed safe to use, Flower recommends talking to your GP before you start taking it, as it can affect some prescriptions such as anti-depressants and certain over-the-counter medications. “There is often confusion over strength, potency and dosage; everyone reacts differently so it is best to start slow and low and increase as you go along,” she says.
“CBD, like many things, has not been tested on pregnant women, so we always say not to use it if you are pregnant or breastfeeding,” adds Joly.
The future for CBD
So, is CBD just another fad? Obel and Böninger are positive about the future of this wellness wonder, suggesting that new, high-end brands and easier retail routes are helping to drag CBD from the murky depths of the alternative wellness realm and firmly into the mainstream.
“When CBD first started to gain people’s attention here in the UK, the main consumer group was actually women over 45 with various different aches. With the development of new brands with more interesting formulations and better branding, we have definitely seen increased interest from younger age groups, and in different categories including supplements and cosmetics.”
CBG, short for cannabigerol is also beginning to make waves in the beauty and wellness industry. “CBG is one of the many cannabinoids produced by hemp and cannabis plants,” explains Blake. “We became interested in CBG after learning about this cannabinoid’s potent antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. When we realised that CBG is more effective on these fronts than CBD, we began to appreciate the full potential of this ingredient for skincare applications.”
As well as its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, CBG acts as an antioxidant, preventing the ageing effects from oxidative stress, making it well-suited for a variety of skin types and ages. While Cellular Goods are one of the only UK brands to currently use this cannabinoid in their products, the promise it shows in the realm of slowing down skin ageing suggest that this ingredient is set to be the next big thing in the cannabinoid world.
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